The Countryside

One of my favorite activities is to visit the countryside around Debre Markos. Evey day I ride my bicycle on the main road, which was paved 10 years ago. Since I was here last in 2008, many of the roads in Ethiopia have been paved, which cuts travel time by 2/3. What used to take 6 hours may now take only 2 hours. There are few differences in rural life between Oromia region and Amhara region. Most are subsistence farmers. That means that the crops they grow are only enough for their family, There is not enough to sell for cash. Getting cash is not easy. I visited one farmer last weekend whose only source of cash was selling cow manure. A huge basket of dried manure, mainly used for cooking, costs 3-5 Ethiopian Birr. A Coke costs 7 birr, so you get some idea at how little that is. If a farmer sells 10 baskets a month, that is only 50-70 birr, about $2.50 0r $3.00. Some professions have more social status than others. Artisans such as potters and weavers have the  lowest social status, in spite of their importance in traditional culture. A jabana, used to boil coffee during a traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremony, is made by potters who in some areas are not even allowed to marry outside their community. Weavers, who make gabis, a traditional cloth that men wear, also have little recognition, in spite of the importance of their wares. Here in Gojam, basketmakers spend 1/2 day weaving large baskets that all the rural women use to carry firewood, leaves, dung, and other goods, sell for only 6 or 7 Ethiopian birr. Remember that the price of a Coke is 7 -10 birr, so you can imagine how little these artists earn.

In the countryside I also found talented musicians. The washint is a flute made from bamboo or metal. They look easy to play but when I blow on them, there is no sound! The shepherds play them mostly to pass the time, but they send messages of their feelings as well.

The croqueted items I am holding in my hands are something like muzzles for the cows so they don't eat the crops. The bags that grain are carried in are unraveled and twisted into these muzzles as well as the whips the shepherds use to move the animals along. Nothing is wasted. It's truly amazing how resourceful Ethiopians are.